Sweet: Belém
The custard tarts came out warm, crackling, dusted with cinnamon. We ate two standing at the counter and bought six for later.
Bitter-sweet: Rossio
A thimble of cherry liqueur at a tiny bar, served from a counter older than anyone in the queue.
Savoury: Alfama
Sardines on a charcoal grill, the sound of fado drifting from a doorway. Lisbon is best eaten slowly.