Eat where Romans eat
The best trattorias around Campo de' Fiori and Testaccio keep short menus: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, gricia. Order one pasta and trust the house wine.
Aperitivo hour
Around seven, Trastevere's piazzas fill with spritz and small plates. It's the city's social glue.
The passeggiata
End with a slow walk — Piazza Navona to the Pantheon, gelato in hand. Rome is best enjoyed with no destination.